Fashion Plate and Photo Sources...Oh, and Random Patterns, Too

Updated September 9, 2011

The Web is chock full of sources for period fashion plates and period photos. Folks on Elizabeth Stewart Clark, Truly Victorian, H-Costume and Sense and Sensibility have passed several sources around over time, and others I have uncovered myself. Lately Google Books has been offering increasing numbers of volumes of popular women's magazines in full, which is a true blessing since not only do we have the fashion plates, but the descriptions and the other magazine content...what a rich source!

Photo: A 1796 fashion plate from the Collection Maciet, with a handwritten note underneath, "Morning Dress".

I am cataloging these resources here for ease, and am adding to them as chances occur.

Right: detail from La Mode Illustree fashion plate, 1869. Collection Maciet, Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs
America's First Look into the Camera: Daguerrotype Portraits and Views, 1839-1864
More than 725 of them, mostly portraits, and mostly by the Mathew Brady studio. Wonderful for fashion research.

Arthur's Home Magazine (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of Arthur's Home Magazine, digitized by Google books. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues. While more religiously minded than other magazines, Athur's still offered some fashion and needlework information. When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "Arthur's Home Magazine". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it.

Belle Assemblee, La (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of La Belle Assemblee, digitized by Google books. This is a super source for Regency fashion. When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "Belle Assemblee". The search may not have garnered all that's out there; because the magazine name changed several times and it is entered into Google Books in several ways. Because of this, I could not use the Editions feature in Google Books, so many items farther down in the search results list will not be the magazine.

Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs, Collection Maciet
Very large database collection of fashion plates, with the occasional pattern. Marvelous for mid-nineteenth century. Photos zoom to very large size. In French. To view the plates:

• From horizontal nav bar at top, choose "Recherche simple" (simple search).
• A form will appear on the left half of the screen.
• In "Termes de recherche" (search terms) field, enter "mode" (fashion).
• Under "Type de document" (document type), check "Collection Maciet".
• Under "Langue" (language), check "Tous" (all).
• Click "Rechercher" (search) in the lower corner.
• A database results list will appear. If you don't speak French, the citations will still make sense enough: just check the boxes next to the years in which you are interested.
• At the bottom of the screen, click "Voir les notices" (view the citations).
• One or more full citations (depending on the number of citations you chose) will come up in the right screen. To view the fashion plates associated with each, click "Voir les vignettes Maciet" (View the Maciet plates) at the lower right corner of a citation.
• Thumbnails will load.
• If you click on a thumbnail, a full-screen dialog box will pop up. It will contain a larger-size image, and along the left side, viewing tools.
  "Zoom avant" = zoom in
  "Zoom arriere" = zoom out
  You can also use the percentage box beneath. Note that it takes time for the images to resolve into their new zoom setting.
  "Selection" gives you a zoom selection tool. On the image, the pointer changes to a box with four arrows. Click and drag to create a selection box to zoom in on a particular portion on the image.
  "Deplacement" is a pan tool. Click and drag the image around.
  "Luminosite" and "Contraste" affect the color, as you might expect.
  "Garder les reglages" (keep the ??) probably means keep the settings
  "Configuration par defaut" (default configuration) returns the image to its original size
  "Impression" (print) allows you to print or save. A new print screen will show up with the image. In the box at bottom it says that you may insert your comments: they will print along with the image. Magnifique!

BFI (British Film Institute): Mitchell and Kenyon Collection: Edwardian Britain on Film
A superb way to see Edwardian clothing (mostly from 1900-1904) in action, as worn by everday people and celebrities. The films are usually just a few minutes long.

Dames a la Mode
Fashion plates. Especially useful for the Regency era. A blog maintained by Tayloropolis.

La Couturiere Parisienne
Fashion plates, patterns, and fashion history from an accomplished fashion historian in Germany.

The Daguerrian Society (this entry added 09/23/08)
A database of over 1,000 images. You may search the database or browse the images by thematically organized galleries.

De Gracieuse 1862-1936 (the Netherlands)
I noted that for 1868, anyway, the fashion plates are replicas of those in Harper's Bazar. Entire magazines have been scanned. Zoom doesn't appear to work, but as of September 2008, if you select an image, and choose "save" from the icons to the right of the image, you get a large enough scan to see details.

Diderot: Encyclopédie, ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers
There are a number of versions of Diderot's enormous encyclopedia out there, some translated, some in the original French, and some as images of each page. A quick Google search of the title will get you many of these. My preference is for the Wikimedia Commons and Wikisource version, since it includes both scans and a searchable text version, and the index to all the plates.

• Scan of each page, on Wikimedia Commons
• Searchable text
• Plates, by volume

Also, see plates related to 18th Century dress from Denis Diderot's Encyclopedia, on the Costumer's Manifesto
Duke Digital Collections (This entry added November 19, 2008)

• Emergence of Advertising in America
  Ads, pamphlets, and more.
• Hugh Mangum Photographs, circa 1990-1922
  Terrific collection of portraits and almost documentary style images from an itinerant photographer practicing in rural North Carolina. Super way to see normal people in their best, and not so best.

Earthly Angels: Cartes de Visite
A blog collection. Can be sorted. Sadly, the collection's editor hasn't, perhaps not being able to, included much in the way of information about the images.

Fashion (Category) in Wikimedia
Image archive divided out by category, with sections such as "18th century fashion" and "dressmaking. Warning: some categories are loaded with images, many without text description, and take forever to load. Proceed with care.

Flickr "Pools" of Historic Photographs and Images (added May 13, 2009)
Flickr is stuffed with contributers who love to share antique photos, postcards, and other images. Here are some of their "pools", groupings of photographs by subject. Be forewarned: some pools, such as one labeled "antique photographs" contain pinups and other images that may not be appropriate for young people (I did not include that pool in this list).

• The Smiling Victorian
  Photographs from the Victorian and Edwardian era, as contributed by individuals from all over the world. One of the nicest thing about the collection is that indeed, many photos record happy moments, either in formal sittings, or more frequently, in snapshot style. Many photos with provenance. Over 800 items.
• La Belle Epoque ca.1890 - ca.1914, including ArtDeco and ArtNouvea
  From photos of buildings to fashions to people, a huge pool of over 11,000 items.
• Vintage Victorian
  Photos, CDVs, postcards, trade cards, illustrations...
• Cabinet Portraits, CDV, Photos on Cardboard
  Just what it says :}
• Pre-1930s Photos
  Again, just what it says.

Godey's Magazine (on Google Books) and The Lady's Book (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of Godey's Magazine, and its predecessor, The Lady's Book, digitized by Google books. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues, and most are complete with their fashion plates and accompanying descriptions. When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "Godey's Magazine" and "Lady's Book". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it. Also, note that some volume years were misstyped in Google; thus the "1886" issue is really for 1836.

Good Housekeeping Magazine (Added October 1, 2009)

• Scans on HEARTH archive site.
  Run of issues in their entirety from 1885-1950, from Cornell University's HEARTH archive. Each page available as an image, a PDF file, or as searchable text. Scans are not great quality, but content is superb anyway. You can easily search all content from all issues at once.
• On Google Books.
  Better quality scans than HEARTH resource, but not a complete run of issues.

Harper's Bazar Magazine
All the magazines from inception in 1867 until 1900. Each page available as an image, a PDF file, or as searchable text. Sadly, the pattern supplements aren't included, but a patient person might find a pattern match in De Gracieuse, which carried many of the same plates and patterns. That magazine's supplements have been digitized. See the entry for it in this list. On the Cornell University HEARTH site.

Historical Artwork and Fashion Plates
Includes Peterson's, Demorest's, The Delineator, New Idea, and more, from 1870 to 1918. Includes some Peterson's patterns. Posted on Festyve Attyre.

History of Corsets (in images)
From Wikimedia Commons. I cannot locate an author. Page takes ages to load, but there are tons of images.

Iowa Digital Library: Iowa Women's Archives and the Noble Photographs (This entry added November 19, 2008)
These two collections, part of the much larger Iowa Digital Library, contain fascinating photographs of women in everyday, work, and school settings. Chiefly Belle Epoque era and later. On the homepage, scroll down to choose either of the collections from the list.

Iowa State University Digital Collections: Fashion Plates
"Contains plates of general fashion dating back to the 18th century and continuing through the 20th century. Additional categories within the files include accessories, baby and beach fashions, bridal fashions and portraits, children's and communion clothing, footwear, inaugural gowns, maid uniforms, masquerade costumes, men's fashion, millinery, mourning dresses, negligees and undergarments. There are also magazine issues relating to fashion as well as magazine articles discussing fashion of the Ancient, Medieval, Renaissance, and Modern periods."

LACMA Collections Online: Costume and Textiles
Fashion plates and online exhibits from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Large holdings.

Ladies' Companion, The (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of The Ladies' Companion, an English woman's magazine, digitized by Google books. There is a very limited amount of fashion information, but enough to be interesting. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues, and most are complete with their fashion plates and accompanying descriptions. When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "The Ladies' Companion". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it.

Lady's Monthly Museum, The (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of The Ladies' Monthly Museum, an English woman's magazine, digitized by Google books. This magazine was published during the Regency and offers some fashion information. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues, and most are complete with their fashion plates and accompanying descriptions. When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "The Ladies' Monthly Museum". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it.

Los Angeles Public Library: Casey Fashion Plates Index
"The Joseph E. Casey Fashion Plate Collection contains over 6,200 handcolored fashion plates from British and American magazines dating from the 1790s to the 1880s. All of the plates are indexed and digitized for online viewing."

McCord Museum, Canada: Costume and Texiles Collection
Zoomable photographs (one per ensemble) and explication of hundreds of items in their collection. Note that the museum has many other collections online, including photographs, plus fascinating games. A marvelous site.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute Added January 13, 2009
Their entire collection is online. Not all pieces have photos. Not all photos are that good, and text information is limited. From the index page, choose the Collection Database link. It seems to be easist to find things if you search for a large category of garment, such as "dress" and then sort the results by date.

Mode Histoire
Scans of the fashion plates and patterns from nineteenth century magazines and transcriptions of all the original text that accompanied them. Currently limited to Peterson's 1863, but more to come. I have contributed my 1872 Peterson's to the effort.

New York Public Library

• NYPL Digital Gallery
  To find fashion plates, in seach box type "fashion" and then a year.
• "The Pageant of America" Photograph Archive
  These are photographs, not fashion plates, but very useful for looking at dress

Period Resources Fashion Scans
From Digital Changeling's site. Including Paris Modes from 1909!

Peterson's Magazine (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of Peterson's Magazine, digitized by Google books. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues, and most are complete with their fashion plates and accompanying descriptions, plus some garment patterns. Warning about the latter: they are not to scale, I hear, even if marked in images, so that you must drape the pattern pieces and alter them to fit you. . When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "Peterson's Magazine". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it.

Powerhouse Museum Collection
From the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney, Australia. Photos of actual garments and accessories, including some ensembles with zoom feature. Warning: the accompanying descriptions can be poor and undated. For example, a search for "fichu" returned quite a list of photos of actual fichus, but almost all of the items were undated and information scanty. Further, not all items listed have photos, but you can filter those out. However, the breadth of objects is wide, and if you already know a bit about the type of item you are researching, the images can be of help. There is also an electronic swatchbook of fabrics from a narrow (but fascinating) selection of years.

Royal Lady's Magazine, The (on Google Books) (Added October 1, 2009)
Entire volumes of Peterson's Magazine, digitized by Google books. Most volumes contain a half year or full year of issues, and most are complete with their fashion plates and accompanying descriptions, plus some garment patterns. Warning about the latter: they are not to scale, I hear, even if marked in images, so that you must drape the pattern pieces and alter them to fit you. . When you click the link, you will go to the Google search results list for "Peterson's Magazine". The search may not have garnered all that's out there, because if there are spelling mistakes or the book was titled with a different word or character, Google will not recognize it.

Shorpy Online Photograph Archive Added May 13, 2009
An online archive of thousands of high-resolution photos from the 1850s to 1950s. Our namesake, Shorpy Higginbotham, was a teenage coal miner who lived 100 years ago. Many of the photos have been extracted from the Library of Congress, while others are contributed. The photo quality is extraordinary.

Tidens Toj
A Danish museum exhibition site containing high-quality, zoomable photos of actual garments, and often fashion plates and patterns to go along with them. Covers multiple centuries, but the nineteenth century is very nicely represented.

University of Washington Digital Collections: Fashion Plate Collection
"The database consists of 417 digital images chosen from a larger group of fashion plates"

Victoria and Albert Images: Heideloff Gallery of Fashion plates
A small selection of plates from the famous Gallery of Fashion, published 1794-1800 by Nikolaus Heideloff in London.

Why Not Then: Antique Garments section
Photographs of garments in author Stormi Souter's collection. Multiple photos per garment, with accompanying construction notes and measurements

Two Trimmed Edwardian 1909 "Beatrix" Skirts Dress Diary, Part 2: Designing a Graduated, Shaped Flounce

Polly desires her Beatrix skirt to have a tall flounce. Skirts of this era often were flounced, although as 1909 turned into 1910 and then the 19-teens, flounces appear to receded in popularity in favor of bands of flat embroidered, lace, or pleated decoration.

Some of the prettiest flounces I've seen are graduated in height. A graduated flounce might start at, say, seven inches in height at the skirt's front panel, but incrementally become taller until it might reach some fifteen inches at the back of the skirt. Combined with a short train, the effect is of two curving lines receding from one another.

Another characteristic of Edwardian tall flounces is that they were frequently cut shaped and on the bias, so that the top of the flounce would be sewn on flat, while the bottom, being wider and on the bias, fluttered out. Such flounces are softer and more clingy than a flounce made of fabric cut straight of grain and then gathered.

Emma Ruth of the Sense and Sensibility described how to make a shaped flounce, and I followed her directions in making Polly's flounce, photographing as I went. Here is how it went:

First, I laid the skirt pattern pieces out on the floor, one right next to the other and matching the seam marks, as if they were making up the shape of half of the skirt.

Then I taped several pieces of waxed paper together and laid the resulting piece of paper on top of the pattern pieces.

In the first image you can see the pattern pieces laid edge to edge, and the waxed paper placed atop.

Next, I traced the line of the bottom and sides of the skirt pattern pieces onto the wax paper.

After this I drew the flounce line. Starting at front of the front panel pattern piece I marked a spot at 7 inches or so from the skirt bottom. Then I drew a curving line that increased in height as it went to the pattern pieces for the sides and then back of the skirt, ending at a position about 15 inches from the bottom of the final, back skirt pattern piece. I cut out the result. Now I had the basic pattern for the flounce, but...I needed to make it flare.

In the second image I have drawn and cut the basic flounce pattern. The front of the skirt is to the left; that's where the flounce is most narrow. The back of the skirt is at the right, where the flounce is widest. Like most pattern pieces, the pattern is for one half of the flounce.

So, on the base pattern I drew long vertical lines several inches apart, from the flounce bottom almost to the top. Then I cut each line with scissors, slashing the pattern pieces and spreading them at the bottom. The more I spread each slash, the wider the fabric would be at the bottom of the flounce and the more the resulting fabric would flutter and flare.

In the third image, a closeup, you can see the vertical lines drawn across the pattern, ready to be cut and slashed.


Finally, I laid another piece of wax paper over the slashed and spread pattern, drew a fresh pattern, and cut that out. Voila, shaped flounce pattern!

In the final image, I have cut and slashed the pattern to create the shaped flounce pattern, and have laid a layer of waxed paper atop, ready to draw the final pattern. Because slashing causes the pattern to curve, I had to add several little pieces of wax paper to fit the curve.

(Emma Ruth noted that if I wanted a gathered flounce I would have slashed each line from top to bottom to break the pattern into separate strips, and then would have spaced them out. Then I would have cut a new pattern from the resulting shape.)

Emma Ruth had another note about preparing the flounce: hem it before applying it to the skirt. Otherwise you're in for a lot of work.

Warm thanks to Emma Ruth for her kind direction. It all worked so well.

Sewing Mornings Continue

A few days later, Polly and I met to work on her skirt. We seamed the main skirt up, and Polly had her first experience using a treadle. She took to it immediately, even getting the hang of working the W&G wheel, which turns in the opposite direction of most sewing machine wheels.

Then I used the flounce pattern to cut out Polly's flounce from her navy and white stripe seersucker, and laid it on the plain skirt. What a nice effect! The stripes on the bias contrast nicely with the stripes on the straight part of the skirt. Can't wait until it's applied to the skirt.

That day's work was attended with a few technical difficulties, shall we say? I hoped to use my Singer handcrank's gathering attachment to make the small ruffle to attach to the main flounce, but it kept jamming, and then the Singer's tension went wonky, a condition from which it has yet to recover. Yargghh. So Polly gamely worked on a trimming ruche by hand...

A few days later we met again, and I demonstrated applying a period placket, using an original garment as a design guide, and we set the waistband, too.

Working on that fabric has been most interesting: did you know that working with narrow striped fabrics can make you dizzy, and ditzy? After several hours of cutting, sewing and ruching, both of us felt a little woozy.

And Rebecca's skirt? It's seamed up and has its waistband, and is ready for the lace insertion. I even found some true period torchon lace to use to trim it with!

Two Trimmed Edwardian 1909 "Beatrix" Skirts: Dress Diary, Part 1

I am making two Beatrix skirts (a Sense and Sensibility pattern) as gifts for friends for a 

picnic at the end of May. While the original pattern is for an untrimmed skirt, each of these will be trimmed in a fashion appropriate to the era. I am planning to set insertion lace in two rows into Rebecca's skirt around the hem, and Polly's skirt will receive a circular flounce headed by a row of ruching. Both ladies loved the idea of trained skirts, too, so both will have their heart's desire.

Having promised to document the process for our tea society, herewith the first report!

Rebecca's Willow Green Trained Skirt with Lace Insertion


On a sunny spring morning, with the crabapple blooming outside the window, I cut out the skirt pieces.


Ladybug helped. This was her first week with us, and she delighted me with her interest in sewing. Zip Zip used to love to help me, and I missed her company.


Now each panel is sewn together. I used 3/8" French seams. French seams are a delight when you have fabric of light enough weight to use them, because a French seam encloses the fabric edges neatly and sturdily, so there will be no loose threads, unraveling, and no further seam finishing!


Fully pieced together, the last seam that draws the skirt up from a two-dimensional bunch of panels into a three-dimensional garment, is ready to be sewn. In the background you can see my circa 1911 Willcox and Gibbs chainstitch treadle sewing machine. It makes sewing linen so straightforward, and it's so quiet that I can sew in the evening while the twins sleep in rooms nearby. Willcox and Gibbs advertised their machines as being silent stitchers, and oh, what a blessing, when you have light-sleeping children!

In fact, here is a little video of the machine at work:

Under the crabapple tree, our boys celebrate springtime

Last year I stood under our crabapple tree, weeks before it bloomed, wearing maternity clothing.

This spring, what gift laughs under our tree in full bloom but twin boys, chuckling with their cousin Jane on the porch swing?

Home! In 1883...

Ithaca! "Forest City", they called it back then. Where Rome had seven hills, "Ithaca makes her boast of seven streams, concerning which she challenges the world". Then there's the lake, "that with its framing of bright, foliage-covered hills and the inlet at its head, might be likened unto a large and beautiful hand mirror." Cornell! The town. The 150 waterfalls. The deep glens and gorges.

Look! This view of Fall Creek emptying into the lake -- it's hardly different now.

D. Morris Kurtz wrote about them all in Ithaca and Its Resources, in 1881. By a wonderful miracle, I ran into it on Google Books, where it's there for the reading. As the title page says,

Ithaca and Its Resources
Being an Historical and a Descriptive Sketch of the "Forest City" and Its Magnificent Scenery
Glens - Falls - Ravines
Cornell University
and the principal
Manufacturing and Commercial Interests
by D. Morris Kurtz
Fully Illustrated

Come and see >

19th Century Women's Fashion Mix and Match Games at the McCord Museum Website

Canada's McCord Museum has two games about women's fashion that test your ability to recognize fashion silhouettes. One of them is tough!

First, try the High Fashion of the Nineteenth Century game, at http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/jeu2_2/.

Second, try the harder Women's Fashion game at http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/jeu2/. I found myself making mistakes right off the bat!

Waving Doughnuts with Excitement

...not me, the boys. I only wish I had a nice fresh old-fashioned doughnut to wave, and then nibble!

Anyhow, back to our story. Last Thursday afternoon was warm and breezy, and before the rain set in, Mom and I set out to garden. We set Noah and Christopher on a quilt, dressed in wide-brimmed hats, and gave them their favorite stacking toy, with rings we call doughnuts, to play with. Well, Christopher handily stacked a doughnut on the stacker, and celebrated to the world.



Curte says that a boy walked by sometime later, and Christopher watched him pass, and then waved a doughnut madly at his back.

Here's Noah in "My Hat"; dig, dig, dig, dig it!

Ornate Mid-Nineteenth-Century Chemise with Front Flap

A month or two ago, when winter still gripped us hard, for solace I browsed a favorite antique shop that sometimes carries vintage and antique clothing. I hadn't looked about for more than a minute when this garment caught my eye. It was listed as a pinafore, and very reasonably priced.

Right: chemise front

It's hardly a pinafore: to my middling understanding those usually fastened at the back and at this length, were worn by children. This garment is clearly sized for an adult.

It is actually a woman's chemise, but of a variant type because it features a front flap. Until very late in the Edwardian era, fashion historians generally write that chemises were worn, along with drawers, as the undermost garments. The chemise absorbed body oils and perspiration and protected the corset, which was worn over it. Over the corset a woman would often add a corset cover/camisole. This protected the dress and corset from each other and might also keep the corset from view if the main dress or waist (blouse) was at all sheer. At times, I have read that the chemise and corset cover were made in one: the chemise would feature a flap that could be pulled out and over the top of the corset. That that is how this garment is meant to be worn.

Very curious as to what I had, and wanting to share pictures of it with others who love antique clothing, I posted information and questions about it on my beloved Sense and Sensibility board. To my delight, other members enjoyed seeing it, and were curious about it or had information to share about it. The garment description that follows is immeasurably improved by their contributions.

Materials

The garment is made of an opaque, tightly woven, mid-weight fabric that hasn't any sheen at all. I thought it to be cotton, then wondered if it might be linen. It's of a plain weave, with occasional very, very small slubs in the thread. The fabric as a whole is the color of high-quality cream from the top of the milk bottle. Not dead white. On the inside of the garment there is a little yellowing , but very little, and there are a few pinpoint rust stains and one or two droplet size stains.

Suzi Clarke, costumier in London (http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/), wrote in a post of the fabric: "It is possible that it was made from "Horrocks's Longcloth", a firm washable cotton made and sold in England by, of course, Horrocks. This was a suitable fabric for underclothes, and was used for, and can be seen in, many still surviving garments."

Carolann Schmitt of the Genteel Arts Academy (http://www.genteelarts.com/) thought it longcloth too, and described the fabric thus: "a tightly-woven cotton with a smooth "hard" finish. The fabric was produced in England and the US and is very common for this period."

Longcloth has an interesting history, and while my antique sewing manuals and fashion history books mention it with frequency, none of them expound on either its nature or its roots. Finally, here is its story, courtesy Carolann:

"The name "longcloth" derives from how it was manufactured. Prior to the industrial revolution, weavers would produce fabric in lengths just sufficient to make a particular garment. Why weave more fabric than you need? It's why so many early 19th century garments (and before) have a "squares and rectangles" cut - virtually no waste. If you look at some of the cutting diagrams for chemises in The Workwoman's Guide (published in 1838) you can see how careful planning uses virtually every inch of fabric.

When commerical textile production is established, it's no longer cost effective to weave short lengths of fabric. A cotton fabric made from tightly-spun fibers woven with a tight weave suitable for undergarments and shirts was one of the first textiles woven in long pieces, hence the name "longcloth". A "piece" of longcloth averaged 62-67 yards; even today, textile production is measured in "pieces" - each averaging 62-65 yards.

One of my primary sources, in an "advice to young wives" article, advises purchasing two full pieces of longcloth when the new wife establishes her household. The first piece will provide enough fabric to make the minimum number of undergarments they should have on hand, including a dozen chemises, 4-6 petticoats, 2-3 underskirts, 2 nightdresses and 2 robes. (Notice they don't mention drawers!). Then, as these garments wear out, they should be replaced with new items cut from the second piece of longcloth. A very practical recommendation."

Right: chemise back

Construction and Measurements

The neckline is wide and shallow, and it is trimmed with a single ruffle edged with tatting. The neckline is shaped by the yoke, which gives the entire garment its shape. The yoke is quite narrow, measuring only an inch wide over each shoulder, and is identical front and back. It is trimmed with a band of broderie anglaise.

The front and back pieces are lightly gored: they are of trapezoidal shape, in the fashion that goes back centuries. Very similar to the pattern shape Elizabeth Stewart Clark uses in her chemise pattern on her site. The top of each panelis lightly gathered and stroked into place. In spots you can see the tiny gathering stitches.

The sleeves are short, plain pieces, carefully gathered and stroked into the armscyes, and trimmed like the neckline.

This chemise has a gusset inset under each arm; they are surrounded by a double layer of fabric, presumably to take strains. I understand that gussets under the arms were less and less used as the nineteenth century went on.

The seams and trim inside and out are exquisitely, precisely, almost invisibly sewn. The tatting, for instance, is made of single threads, and the thread used to whip it to the edge of the neckline and sleeves is so fine that it can hardly be seen. I do not know if I could find thread that fine now. The broderie anglaise trim is similarly fine. The main seams and bottom hem are machine sewn with a lockstitch machine, using similar or the same fine thread. These main seams are flat felled and the stitch count is very high, some 16 stitches to the inch. The ruffles are hand whipped to the neckline, and the reinforcement fabric at the underarm gussets is so finely hand-hemmed that it took awhile to find any stitching.

Measurements were taken on a dress form, but loosely:

• front and back neckline, shoulder to shoulder: 19 1/2 inches
• yoke width at shoulder: 1 inch
• sleeve diameter: 5 1/2 inches
• front flap width: 12 1/2 inches at top, 7 1/4 inches at bottom
• front flap length: 7 inches
• front and back panel width measured at arm gusset bottom, each: 27 inches
• front and back panel width measured at garment hem: 34 inches
• garment length, shoulder to hem: 32 inches

Its Date and Context in Fashion History

Much of the posting back and forth today concerned the chemise date. Portions of the posts are included here, and offer not only a date for this garment, but give a sense for how a decision was arrived at.

• Emma Ruth: You're right, it is a chemise. I would date it to the 1850s or 1860s because of the horizontal band yoke. That was the style of chemise worn while dropped shoulder seams were used on dresses. Once shoulder seams moved up to a more modern position by the early 1870s chemises with straight horizontal yokes could no longer be worn and chemises with shaped yokes came into fashion instead.
  

• Elizabeth Stewart Clark: "I'd ditto a mid-century date, due to the shape and "set" of the yoke. How are the seams in the chemise body handled? Is the body gored, or straight panels?"

• Acacia: "Perhaps more of us will join in here: I've done "surface study" of mid century but certainly not in depth. My first impulse was 1840's. I suspect it's the style of the white work that will help date it. It looks to be entirely hand sewn - is that right? It possibly could go one decade earlier into the 1830's - as you say the wide neckline hints at that, but this style neckline was still worn later - especially for ball gowns, which retained that style of open, wide neck. (After this, I detail its construction as a mix of machine and handsewing.)
  

• Suzi Clarke: "If it is machine sewn, it is highly unlikely to have been sewn before the 1850's when sewing machines were first commercially available for domestic sewing. Also, I can't remember the date when lock stitch, as opposed to chain stitch became the regular stitch, but chain stitch was the earlier."

• Carolann Schmitt: Mid-19th century chemises are one of my "specialties". I have 25+ in my collection.
  
  I'd date this chemise c.1855-early 1860s.
  - The neckline is starting to transition from the straight band of the early-mid1850s to the deeper shaped yokes c.1860-1865.
  - It still has the square cut sleeves, gussets and reinforcements typical of this period, before the transition to sleeves cut with a bias seam and no gussets.
  - This is the same period when the cut of the body of the chemise transitions from the full width of the fabric with inset triangular gores to add width at the lower edge (look carefully - the seams can be almos invisible!) to a body cut with gored seams. In the mid1860s this cut will transition again to one with some slight shaping at the waist.
  - The fabric does appear to be longcloth - a tightly-woven cotton with a smooth "hard" finish. The fabric was produced in England and the US and is very common for this period. Cotton had pretty much replaced linen for undergarments in the late 1840s-1850s.
  - Chemises from the 1840s are square cut, with a wide 'scoop' neckline, longer and fuller sleeves, and are much longer in length. The length of this one indicates it could have been worn tucked or untucked.
  - The flap protects the inside of the dress from wear and crocking from the corset. It's a characteristic feature of late 1850s chemises. I have two chemises with a flap in the front and the back. You'll also find flaps on nursing chemises - covering the slits in the fabric.
  - The trimming at the neckline - corded tucks, whitework band, tatted edging - is very common. I have two or three chemises with almost identical trim.
  
  Chemises like this were available ready-made at very affordable prices from merchants across the country in towns and cities of any size.
  
  It's a lovely piece, Natalie.

Additional Pictures

Side view

Yoke and neckline detail showing tatting, piping, broderie anglaise trim and stroked gathers on sleeves. Note: if you view the large version of this image by clicking on it, please be aware that I used telephoto to approximately twice the actual size: it blurred the image a little but also made the tatting look coarse. In actuality, the tatting threads are fine as sewing thread. Each picot is an eighth of an inch tall. The yoke is but one inch wide at the shoulder, and the ruffle but 3/8 of an inch wide.

Detail showing gusset with reinforcement fabric under arm

In Memoriam: Inkspot Ferguson, 1990-April 3, 2008

This evening sometime after 5:00 p.m. Inkspot, our wonderful, happy-spirited kitty passed away. She had been our dancing cat with the lightest paws -- they hardly touched the ground when she'd see us and come to meet us. She spent her days with Curte, sitting on his desk while he worked, our dear friend and companion. I will write more very soon. Tonight, just hours after she has gone to be with Zip Zip, my heart is too broken. Someday we will see you again, darling. For now, you're with your kittens in a happy place.

Inkspot sometime in 2004.

Days Later, the House Is So Empty

It's been five days since Inkspot has left us, and the shock has hardly worn off. Curte tidied up in the evening and had an armload of things to bring upstairs. "Must leave room to carry Spot," he thought, and then it hit him that she no longer would stand in his arms as he brought her upstairs for the night. I pass the yellow barrel-back chair that she favored in the living room: its seat is a thick down cushion and it's close to a skirted table she could leap onto that gave onto a great view of the front yard. Usually I have a little startled moment as I realize that she no longer naps there. Yesterday something close by sounded like a cat retching after she has eaten grass, and I thought, "Oh boy, better check on her", but the sound came from outdoors.

On winter morning in late 1991 or early 1992 as I was struggling with my master's thesis and very bored, I glanced out of the dining room window, and saw a small black and white cat emerge from under a parked car in the lot below. It was such a thin little being, and I'd not seen it before.

So I went to investigate and found a bony young kitty with a big stomach and spots of engine oil down her back from having rubbed the underside of a car. She was terribly skittish. It took time, perhaps a day or two, and tuna fish and dry cat food to lure her to our second-floor landing, and from thence into our house. At first I said she'd stay on our porch at the back of the apartment, but that lasted a few hours and then she was wandering our rooms, sniffing and tentatively happy. I recall she found and ate the wrapper from a stick of butter. Clearly she had been on her own and trash-picking for some time.

We named her Inkspot for her tuxedo patterning -- not that engine oil on her fur -- and when I opened the door to the outside some days later, where it was warm and sunny, she stood near the threshold, but would go no further, and she looked at me and meowed. She did not want to leave us. So that was that. She was part of the family.

Her thin-thick self proved not to have a worm infestation but to be bearing kittens, and when the time came to deliver them, she wanted my sister's affection and help, unusual in cats, who often like privacy. She asked for help in caring for the five little ones, too: as the kittens grew she couldn't easily lift the biggest of them, fuzzy blue-gray boy Woolly Bear, and on the way from an old den to a new one, dropped him in the hallway, meowing for us to pick him up and carry him for her. We helped her carry each kitten. When the kittens used us as jungle gyms, she rested nearby.

Her Spotness, International Cat of Mystery, our Miss Silly, sweet tater purrpaw, Little Spot, she was svelte and when she purred, if you listened closely she might favor you with a breathy, elegant sound intermixed with the deep inner vibration. As the years passed, she discovered the joys of lap sitting and sleep on the bed, and took to Curte, so much so that in pictures we have of him at breakfast, there's Inkspot next to him on a chair, paws tucked under has he reads the paper; there's Inkspot next to his rocking chair on the front porch, there's a quiet moment for man and cat on the back deck in the sunshine, there she is sprawled as he works on house renovations in Atlanta. There she is perched on just three inches of chair arm in his office as he works, or on his desk next to the mouse pad, so he has to circle his arm around it to get to the mouse. There they are out in the back yard, touring the grounds together, cat in front a few steps, sometimes starting up for no reason and tearing pell-mell to a tree to climb it halfway in the joy of being alive.

My sister also wrote about Inkspot: see her post.

You were about 18, we guess, when you left us, but you graced us with sixteen delightful years. We miss you, sweet Spot.

The Wandering Milk Bottle

What happened to Noah's toy when it wandered away...the episode left him scratching his head. Watch!

The Twins Play with Their Cereal

Noah kept grabbing at the bowl of cereal while I was trying to get spoonfuls of it to feed to him. This happened week after week, until last week I had a brain-wave. If he wanted to get his hands in the cereal, let him!

So glop! went large adult-size spoonfuls of thick rice cereal onto their high-chair trays. And splat! went Noah's hands into the mushy pile. And smear! went the cereal everywhere. Later on in the experiment both hands went into his mouth, and he understood that yes! this was his everyday food and he could eat it on his own.

Christopher, true to nature, was more suspicious. He tested and examined fistfuls of cereal, and never did more than nibble it.

By the end of last week the boys had experimented with cereal three times, and bathtime each night was somewhat extended, as cereal went into ears, up noses, down necks, and dried into the hair. Yikes!

So here they are, experimenting:

1909 Edwardian "Beatrix" Plaid Wool Skirt Dress Diary

My goodness, I started this skirt November 30th, but finally it's wearable. Am quite happy with it...the drape is lovely and it's fun to wear. It's made of a pretty worsted wool plaid in a soft green with red and yellow accents and blue undertones.

I chose the trained version of Jennie Chancey's Sense and Sensibility Beatrix pattern, and also opted for the boned high waist.

The skirt is hemmed as close to the length of similar examples shown in a 1910 Ladies Home Journal (thank you, Carol!), where the illustration of a nice suit shows the model's shoe tips just peeking out in front, and a light train in back. I am wearing shoes with a 1.5 inch Louis heel, shoes of a type as close as I can get to 1909 in my (midget) price range.

Here is another picture:


The skirt lovely to walk in: it swishes quietly and romantically. I have a double-flounced petticoat on underneath that comes to the shoe tops. It keeps the skirt from wrapping around the legs, and the train also helps when I walk. However, it's so true that you must lift your skirts to climb stairs or step outside, and I found that the white petticoat would peep out when I lifted the skirt. It would be nice to have a skirt lifter to attach a belt so that my hands would be free.

I plan to remove the hem and replace it with a facing. Ideally, I'd like the front to have a 3" facing, graduating to a 5" facing in back. This helps the skirt drape and move well, according to contemporary sources. Right now, since there is a train, my hem varies too much and is actually widest at the sides.

For a 1908 article about this type of skirt, its construction, and what to wear underneath it, please see "Sewing Gored Skirts" at http://www.vintageconnection.net/SewingSkirts.htm.

For a 1908 article on how to walk and hold such a skirt -- with photos! -- see "What to Do with a Long Skirt" at http://www.vintageconnection.net/LongSkirts.htm.

The Waist Facing Construction

I love the boned waist. It's made with a facing, and the bones are attached to the seams under it. The result is so nicely low-bulk!

As a reminder, the original instructions are for a regular waistband, but Jennie says that to create the high waist of the original skirt, one can add two inches to the top of each pattern piece, add bones, and use a facing instead of a waistband. So that's what I did...

I added the two inches to each pattern piece.

After stitching all the seams and then binding them, I prepared the facing. After cutting a 2-inch wide strip (plus enough for hems and seam allowance) an inch longer than the waist circumference, I turned under one long side and both short sides and stitched them to form hems. Then I placed the unhemmed long edge against the top of the skirt, right sides together and with the ends at the placket opening, and stitched.

Then I added the bones. I placed a 2-inch bone (the plastic kind that comes encased in bias tape, in this case black bias tape) on each seam, placing it just below the facing seam, and catch-stitched it to the seam binding.

Note: I made the seam binding on all the seams all face the back of the skirt, excepting the two closest to the placket, which I faced away from the placket.

Then I turned the facing to the inside of the skirt and hemmed it down, trying to take stitches that caught the wool but didn't show at all on the right side of the skirt. At the placket edges, had to angle things a bit.

The results:





Another note: the seam binding doesn't match on different seams and some seams have two different kinds on it. That's me being thrifty: I used what I had :}

The Pleats: Construction

The placket is set into a box pleat, with the right inside corner (as you're looking at the skirt) slashed and bound with bias tape to create the actual placket. The pleat is stitched down for about four inches on each side to control gapping.

Then there are two regular pleats, each facing towards the placket, to the right and left of the placket, to arrange the fabric in the back panels smoothly. As I lose more baby weight I will deepen these pleats. One is a little deeper than the other as it is...caused, I think, by the way I did the placket (I eyeballed everything rather than measuring it.) I stitched these pleats down a bit as well: you can see that on one side I've only basted that part in place (still have some work to do!)

The results:




Plus, the original May Manton 1909 pattern Jennie drew on for inspiration looks like one for a corselet skirt. These were very high waisted indeed. The Nancy Bradfield Costume in Detail book has a picture of a woman whose corselet skirt goes almost to under her chest. This was the Edwardian version of the Empire look. So am considering adding another inch or two in height to the waist.

Another note: besides the petticoat, I am wearing an original Edwardian back-buttoning waist of batiste, embroidered, tucked, and embellished with lace insertion and trim. It is very, very short-waisted, so much so that it must have been worn with a corselet skirt, as it almost refuses to tuck in at this height. The waist is a treasured possession I only wear for special occasions :} Under this is a corset cover drafted from Frances' Grimble's The Edwardian Modiste, and an underbust, longline (to mid-hip) boned girdle, the closest thing I have to the late Edwardian tubular corset; the fit is clinging but not overtight.

An Internal Hidden Belt

A final note: Emma Ruth from Sense and Sensibility (thank you!) had this to add about the skirt construction, for the next time around:

This is random and late, but it might be possibly helpful to anyone making a skirt in future.

Those high-waisted skirts weren't designed to hover up there by magic! There was an easy way to keep them up: a hidden inside belt.

The bottom edge of the belt sits at the natural waistline, and it has darts to keep it in place on the figure. The width of the belting is the same as the "extra" height of the skirt. The skirt gets sewn to the belt at their top edges only. The belt fastens with it's own hooks and eyes separate from the skirt fastening. Sometimes they're boned, but not always. All the belting I've seen on originals looks exactly like modern petersham ribbon only it's cotton or silk.

I am not surprised that a pattern envelope wouldn't have belt instructions written on it, or even would tell you that you should use one; there would have been no reason to mention it. It was such a universal construction method that anyone who owned a skirt with a raised waistline would have known about it as a matter of course. There were detailed instructions in most sewing manuals for making them from belting bought by the yard, and some books say they could also be bought ready-made with your other sewing notions.

Here are some period sewing lessons that show how to make a belt and install it:

On the Vintage Sewing.info site:

from American Dressmaking Step by Step (1917):
http://vintagesewing.info/1910s/17-ad/ad-08.html#lesson184 (Lessons 185 and 186)

from: Mrs. Chalmers 'Lesson on the New Circular Skirt (The Delineator, 1915):
http://dressmakingresearch.com/delineator_dressmaking_lesson_1915.htm

from Tailored Skirts (1916):
http://vintagesewing.info/1910s/16-ts/ts-02.html#inside

from Tight Linings and Boning (1922):
http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/22-tlb/tlb-02.html#girdles

On the Cornell University HEARTH site:

from The Dressmaker (Butterick, 1911 and 1916)
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;sid=6c91490d4efb364d97665c932dfa317f;rgn=full%20text;idno=4216145;view=image;seq=0003
( go to page 110)

from Dressmaking: A Manual for Schools and Colleges (1917):
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;sid=4f511d38909911a653c22c5a93658ff8;rgn=full%20text;idno=4216153;view=image;seq=0005
(pages 387 and 388)

from Department Store Merchandise Manuals: The Notions Department (1917):
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;sid=009afcdef49223300574fc030b975cac;rgn=full%20text;idno=4219106;view=image;seq=0009
(go to page 81 for a whole chapter on belting)

from The Dress You Wear and How to Make It (1918):
http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/pageviewer-idx?c=hearth;cc=hearth;sid=efd75abf16bbfd5e52c50b67eda35a89;rgn=full%20text;idno=4400577;view=image;seq=0009
(pages 129-132)

After this, several of us traded posts. I've copied down bits of them here.

Celeste and I were confused about how to use the belting. So, [Emma wrote] "I don't know when the idea was first thought up, so don't trust me. It seems to me that it starts showing up in books at the same time that waistlines started to rise, which would be right around 1910.

I don't know where you can buy belting new, but it's possible to find something similar enough to replace it. It's a wide cotton ribbon or tape. It looks just like thick grosgrain ribbon or the petersham ribbon sold for upholstery. If you intend to bone it, it could be cut from strong fabric (like you'd use for a corset) instead. I have found rolls of old belting in various widths at flea markets and estate sales, mixed in with other old sewing notions.

I think the main reason it says to sew the belt to the skirt is to give a nice smooth line. Also, some belting arrangements are the way they are simply because they are designed to be done on the sewing machine. Other methods can only be done by hand and are therefore very labor-intensive.

I'm not sure if I can picture exactly what you mean, as there are several different ways of sewing belting on, so I'll take a guess. If you look at the instructions with their tiny and unhelpful pictures, the whole concept appears more complicated than it is. Part of the point of the belt is that all the bulky edges and darts and seam allowances are on the inside of the belt where they won't look lumpy; the only layer outside the belt is the skirt. Only the very top edge of the skirt is attached to the belt, and it flows down loose over the smooth outside of the belt. Obviously you then end up with the raw edge of the skirt top on the inside of the belt, and then you do have to cover it with a narrow thin facing, tape or bias binding. But that facing isn't sewn to the skirt itself, only to the inside of the belt.

Say you're making a skirt that is fitted all around. You could face the top edge, but you don't have to if you're using an inside belt. The belt is a facing of a sort, only it is not sewn to the skirt at the lower edge. If you faced the top of the skirt first, you'd basically have two facings, one behind the other, which would be needlessly bulky and the bottom edge line of the skirt facing might show on the right side. That's the the only problem I can think of you might run into."

Then came a discussion about petersham and grosgrain and today's webbing. Petersham is rather like grosgrain but picoted, and shapes to the waist. Grosgrain will not shape. Today's webbing is too thick to be darted like the old books talk about. Suzi, a well-known costumer, warned us against using it and trying to pleat it.

So I did some Googling about petersham and came up with "Oh, thank heaven for Google Books! I Googled "petersham" and "darts" and what do you know, one of Sandra Betzina's sewing books came up with a sidebar all about petersham and how it bends to the waist! Please see http://books.google.com/books?id=hikmNdn-ZXMC&pg=PA72&lpg=PA72&dq=petersham+darts&source=web&ots=3mfqtBI41r&sig=aJFyEvBbUcEWM3C0HaX1ivJT680&hl=en.
The Sewing Place (online) carries it and it comes up to 1 3/4 inches wide.

And Emma wrote back "Waistband webbing is definitely going to be too thick. Old belting is thin yet firmly woven, thin enough that you can put darts into it easily and without bulk. It's essentially a cotton grosgrain ribbon or tape, about the same thickness as a modern grosgrain ribbon or cotton twill tape. The only difference is that it's wider."

Since this conversation I've come upon some more information about belting:

• See Katherine's Dress Site (aka Koshka-the-cat) and her illustrated article of the construction of a teens-era pleated skirt, using belting! The belting is simplicity itself to put together, although I would not use curtain tape for the belting :} What I didn't understand in her article was the placket. Anyhow, see "A Nineteen-teens Pleated Skirt" at http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/pleated_pattern.html.
  

Splashing in a Tub of Water

Last evening marks the second time the boys had fun with a pan of warm water. I set it out, plopped one boy on each side, and let them have at it. On the first go-round several weeks ago, Noah leaned over and put both hands in, splat. Christopher tested the water with a hand repeatedly, pulling his fingers away after a moment's contact and then looking at them.

This time? Both boys put their hands in the water splat. And splat. And splash, plash, plash. Their outfits both received a soaking, as did the front of my skirt and slip.

Oh, did they have fun, and oh, did they want to smile at us about it all!

Here's a little video.

Christopher Kneels at Crib's Edge

Today, for what we think is one of the first times, Christopher pulled himself up to a kneeling position using the crib rail. He was so proud of himself that he remained there, meditatively sticking out his tongue from time to time, telling us about the view, and smiling. He remained there so long we were able to get photos and even a short video.

Later on, as the chilly air outside got chillier, the draft coming from under the front door became worse, so I ran to the grocery and bought two 10-pound bags of rice. No, we're not eating rice to generate heat. Instead, I sewed up a tube of fabric long enough to reach from one end of the door to the other, and stuffed it with the rice. Now it excludes the air quite well, if not perfectly. Since it's to drop to 5 degrees tomorrow night, we needed this aid in a hurry.

Noah helped me. He is fascinated with the sewing machine; don't worry, his fingers are being kept far, far away from moving parts.

Here's another of Noah and the machine, a Singer 27 handcrank, who, as Miz Johnny explained to me recently, is a very companionable, amenable, hard-working elderly lady :}

Here is Christopher at the edge of the crib:

A Wrapper, But of What Year?

Sometime last fall I was lucky enough to purchase a vintage wrapper. From its shape and construction, I estimate to be anywhere from the 1890s to the early 1900s, but am not quite sure of the real date.

The garment is of a black and white soft cotton flannel, and appears, from construction details to have been sewn at home. The bodice trim is a soft ecru coarse ribbon or tape. It is sewn on the dress in nice curves, but when viewed up close, the stitching that holds it down wanders a great deal, as if done in a hurry.

The bodice opens way down the front and the neckline opens into a squared V. The upper portion of the placket opening is closed three black buttons reaching down to the waistline. The buttons are mounted to an overlap that is made of a separate band of fabric sewn to the left bodice front, and the underlap piece holding the buttonholes is also separate and sewn to the right bodice front.

At the waistline a self belt with ends cut to arrow points is attached at the side seams; I imagine that it ties in front. Otherwise the rest of the front placket would gap open. Part of that remaining opening is -- partially -- covered by a small rectangular band the width of the underlap, sewn with a line of the ecru trim down the middle, and tacked to the underlap. It is not nearly long enough to reach to the bottom of the placket opening and I can't see how it was ever effective. Is a piece missing? Was this a hasty fix to a faulty front opening?

The yoke section of the bodice is lined with coarse muslin that's now ecru in color; it might once have been white. The curved yoke seams are not seamed right sides together. Instead, the wrong side of the yoke curve is seamed to the right side of the bodice front. The seam edges are left unfinished and that ecru trim is just sewn up from the seam up to the edge of the allowance. If you look carefully underneath you can see that the edge of the fabric is very slightly frayed.

The collar is set on separately and trimmed with the same trim as elsewhere.

Towards the yoke bottom a very prettily arranged frill is sewn, the join seam covered by more ecru trim.

The sleeves are set right on the top of the shoulder and are gathered in enough to create a very small puff. Again, the gathering was done in a hurry: some gathers are sewn so the resulting pleat lays frontwards, others backwards, and the gathers vary greatly in position from one sleeve to the other. Note that the sleeves are shaped: each sleeve is cut in one piece, but curving in from the elbow, so that when worn the sleeve will sit nicely on the arm, without excess wrinkling. A small tear at the front sleeve seam shows where stress was likely applied to the garment by the person wearing it. I doubt that the garment would have torn there otherwise, but could be wrong.

The self cuffs are some two inches deep. They are constructed in four pieces, sewn right sides together and then turned to create a finished tube, and joined to the sleeve. The seam is covered with the ecru trim. The cuffs ensure less wear at the sleeve edge.

The back of the wrapper below the toke is in two pieces, seamed down the center. At the top, an inner and outer box pleat are set in a point at the yoke point.

The wrapper hem would just trail the ground, I believe. The bottom of the skirt is simply turned up rather than being faced. A narrow edge is turned to hide the raw edge, and then turned again in a wide hem. To help pull the skirts to the back of the body, the hem is some three inches wide in front, while it gradually widens to between four and five inches in back. Where necessary, small pleats are taken in the hem to account for the fact that there is more fabric in the hem length than in the length it is hemmed to.

All in all, the wrapper shows what I think are some nice design and construction elements: the pretty front bodice frill, the handsome yoke and flowing back pleat treatment, the graduated hem. At other points, however, the garment appears to have been constructed rather hastily, and not everything worked. That front opening just confuses me.

An Edwardian Ruche-Trimmed Hat, part 2: Pictures

Oh, seven or so months after I finished and wore this straw hat to tea with our society at Flag Fork Herb Farm, here finally are pictures. Over a year and a half ago I'd started the hat and steamed it into shape, and had begun the laborious task of pinking and then ruching cream-colored dupioni silk to the entire underside of the hat brim and a bit of the top.

By the time the hat was finished, the shape had worn out and the hat brim flopped again. If you want the shape to be stable, you should store your hat in its own box, the brim sewn, if necessary, into the correct position. Instead, I had put the hat in a closet and eventually other hats came to rest on top.

Here are pictures of the results. At the tea we decided we preferred the flat brim to the original Cavalier-tilt version planned.

Here is the hat underside.
















And a detail of the silk ruching.


















Finally, the hat as worn to tea. Since the hat design is meant to evoke 1910-1910, the era of enormous, grand, over-the-top hats, the era which also saw a pencil-thin dress silhouette to balance the wide toppers, I wore a narrow-lined dress. However, since I'd had those twin boys two months before, the silhouette was less slim and appealing than planned. Ah well.

Note that had I worn the hat in period fashion, it would have sat tilted more forward by far than it does and the underside would not show nearly as much. It would also have been trimmed with several long, full ostrich plumes.

What, More Baby Videos?

The remainder of the Christmastime clips of Noah and Christopher, promised a few days ago:

Our Babies Dance to Aaron Neville

They really enjoyed Aaron Neville's Lousiana Christmas Day.



Christopher Says, "Mna, Mna, Mna, Mna"

This one you'll have to turn sideways, because I don't have video editing software yet and so cannot change the orientation!