Tuesday, February 12, 2013

La Lingère, by M. Panckoucke: Plate 2 Captions Translated

Here we go, the captions from La Lingère in M. Panckoucke's Encyclopédie Méthodique, plate 2.

This second plate is most interesting to me in its several versions of women's shifts, French and English.


Fig. A, French-style woman's shift. A, the shift body; b b, the gores, c, the slanting cut of the neckline; d d, the sleeves.
Fig. B, an English-style woman's shift; the gores cc, which are lifted (and placed) at ff.
Fig. C, other English-style woman's shift; he single gore joined g, which is lifted (and placed) at h.
Fig. D, man's shirt; ii, the shoulder piece; k k, the bosom (cut down the front); l, the bosom gusset, in the form of a heart; m m, the sleeve gussets; n n, the side gussets; o, the back of the shirt longer than the front; p p, the sleeves; q q, the sleeve slit.
Fig. E, pattern (cut) of a valet de chambre's apron; a b c, lifted (gathered) so that the length of the cotton fabric is folded in two; b b, part of the lifted (upper piece?) part joined to make a front pocket; c c, the other part of the lifted (upper piece?) part which one carries back to c, to double the underneath of the button??? (boutonniere).
Fig. F, neckcloth; 1, flap which receives the chape (chape) of the buckle. [In Wikipedia's buckle entry, a chape is described: "Chapes or "caps" of various designs could be fitted to the bar to enable one strap end to be secured before fastening the other, adjustable end. This made buckles easily removable and interchangeable leading to a significant advantage since buckles were expensive. Unfortunately, the teeth or spikes on the semi-circular chapes damaged the straps or belts, making frequent repairs of the material necessary. Buckles fitted with the “T”-, anchor-, or spade-shaped chapes avoided this problem but needed a slotted end in the belt to accommodate them." In the accompanying Wikipedia image, the chape is a button sort of affair attached to an arm which is connected to the buckle's bar. Putting the button through the hole in the neckcloth's flap attaches the buckle to the neckcloth.]; 2, flap with enters into the buckle and will be pricked by (he buckle's) prong.
Fig. G, "between-cut" of a bonnet-style headdress, heads set in opposition to spare (relieve stress upon) the cotton fabric.
Fig. H, cap-style headdress cut out to be assembled; 3, the slanting cuts; 4, the false hem.
Fig. I, brassiere-style shift for infants. [the details are missing from the text.]

Here is plate 2.

Well, there we are. I am going to have a look at the full text of La Lingère, and see if it might be interesting to translate it, as well, or if I should move on for the moment to a subject from the same source which is just itching to get some air: the wigmaker!

You might be wondering where in tarnation that sleeveless spencer is. Welllll, I can't see the eye in any needle right now; a stronger eyeglass prescription was already in order, but since last week, things are even blurrier. New glasses are forthcoming; then we'll get back to work :}


Isis said...

Ooooh, the wigmaker, the wigmaker! :) I just got Plocacosmos, almost 500 pages of hairstyling from 1782.

ZipZip said...

Dear Isis,

Duly noted, and since I'm of your frame of mind, and there is no academic panel insisting that I complete anything in order (ah, freedom!), guess what, we're switching to perruquier, even though I've already begun translating the lingère text...