|Start with lapels |
Here it is:
- lapels, from the blue wool spencer, because they look so good, but a little smaller than the 1794 example, so they won't look silly for evening wear
- sleeveless base, to take care of Kentucky summertime ridiculous heat
- optional add-in sleeves, from the blue wool spencer, to take care of the cooler seasons
- optional add-in epaulettes in gold braid to hold up the sleeves
- trimmed at the cuffs and around the collar with chenille embroidery in a Neoclassic design, to complement the add-in epaulettes, in a faintly military style -- a takeoff on your Museum of London pelisse trimming, Mrs. C :}
- made of my existing 1.5 yards of periwinkle silk, so that I don't have to spend for fabric
- sewn with yellow silk sewing thread to add some pop to the seams (see Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail for an example)
|Add the "body".|
Next, Planning the Project Execution
Let's do this right, and have a proper plan:
- Examine extant garments, and check written sources in diaries and magazines. This refines understanding of how the garment is worn, constructed, and trimmed.
- Search for extant chenille trimmings. I already have a pretty decent idea but want to show you pictures.
- Get chenille in soft yellow from Hand Dyed Fibers. Get yellow silk thread (check Mary Corbett's Needle 'n Thread for best source: it could be Hedgehog Handworks.
- Find braid or use chenille to make it.
- Work up toile in muslin and refine fitting over the dress, especially the sleeves.
- Take the toile pieces, and draw them on the silk.
- Draw the trim design in pencil on the silk. Do not cut the pieces. This is how I understand 18th century embroiderers would have worked.
- Stretch the silk in a hoop, and work the embroidery*. I do not have a proper "slate" stretcher such as would be best for such a project, but embroidery hoops galore, so there you are.
- Cut the linen lining, cut the pieces.
|Design a Neoclassic embroidery pattern.|
|Apply it to collar, fronts, sleeves, as here.|